Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay, is a riot of colour, energy and chaos.

Capital of the state of Maharashtra, Mumbai is the centre of Indian commerce and media, generating almost 40 per cent of India's GNP. The port is still one of the busiest in the world and the city itself tends to attract tourists en route to other parts of India, such as Goa or Kerala.

Located on the west coast of India, the city is home to almost 16.5 million people. Based on seven islands, it was originally settled by Koli fishing people, later ruled by Hindu dynasties, invaded by Muslims in the 14th century, under Portuguese rule briefly and under British government control from 1665.

Leased to the East India Company for a nominal rent, an excellent harbour ensured that Bombay boomed, becoming the major trading port for the west of India. Land reclamation projects in the 18th century created a single land mass and the opening of the Suez Canal in the 1860s provided a further economic boost. Bombay played a key role in the struggle for independence in India and was officially renamed Mumbai in 1996.

The best time to visit Mumbai is between April and September when the city is at its least stifling. The huge and colourful Ganesh Chaturthi festival, celebrating the Hindu elephant-headed god, takes place in August and September.

Walking around Mumbai is an experience, with its busy streets and noisy traffic. Its wide boulevards remain crowded and hectic at all times of the day and the air is extremely polluted. The city is also home to immense poverty, in stark contrast to the cosmopolitan and wealthy areas of the city. Mumbai has some of Asia's largest slums and thousands of beggars, though it is relatively safe for tourists.

The many bazaars are one of the major reasons to visit the city and the best place to spend your rupees. The ornate and colourful textiles, jewellery and handicrafts are available at extremely low prices and it is wise to leave some room in suitcases for purchases. Mumbai also has a growing number of upscale and designer boutiques on its increasingly fashionable shopping streets.

Mumbai has some impressive sights, with a large collection of art and artefacts at the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, gothic architecture at the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus and the vast yellow basalt Gateway of India. There are also countless impressive buildings from its colonial past dotted around the city, many of which are now galleries and museums.

For sport lovers, the Maidan is the place to visit, with informal cricket played on Oval and Azad Maidan most days of the week. Mumbai is also home to India's world-famous Bollywood film industry and a cinema visit is an interesting experience even if you don't understand the script.

Chowpatty beach is lively and informal, with bars and food sellers along the shore every evening. However, the water around the city is filthy and it is not advisable to swim at any time, though many of the more upscale tourist hotels now have pools.

Stylish bars and coffee shops are springing up across Mumbai and the city now has a range of excellent restaurants serving all kinds of cuisine. Hotels and accommodation for all kinds is plentiful, with a growing number of affordable and comfortable places to stay. Flights to Mumbai can be expensive and it is worth shopping around for the best price, while a range of travel companies include the city in package trips to India.