Havana is synonymous with old men congregated outside cafes slowly puffing on fat cigars, horses and carts jostling for business with battered Cadillacs and delightfully dilapidated buildings basking in the Caribbean sun. It's a charming pace for old world glamour and all too easy to sit sipping cocktails whilst watching life pass by on the bustling streets from behind your oversized sunglasses.

The UNESCO-declared World Heritage Site of Habana Viejo is deservedly top of the tourist itinerary where brightly-coloured post-colonial mansions jostle for attention with ageing churches in cobbled plazas. After soaking up the atmosphere of the Plaza de la Catedral and the nearby Plaza de Armas, head to Obispo, Habana Vieja's busiest street to join the throng of Cubans on your way to the Parque Central.

But appearances are often deceptive and Habana Viejo is no different. The area is home to many of Cuba's poorest families, squashed into tiny apartments behind the ornate facades of the buildings. Unsurprisingly, the prospect of rich tourists with digital cameras and the warren of streets make it a haven for pickpockets although more serious crime is rare.

Those who want to find out what gives the city its infectious buzz are well advised to pay a visit to the Museo de la Revolución, housed in the extravagant former presidential palace of General Fulgencio Batista and comprising an overwhelming array of information.

No visit to the cigar capital of the world would be complete without a proper glimpse of a genuine factory with workers going about their daily grind. Luckily, the Fábrica de Tobacos Partagás is a worthy example, churning out famous makes as Cohiba, Bolívar and Partagás whilst the workers remain oblivious to hoards of snap-happy tourists.

For a taste of Havana's thriving contemporary culture, head to elegant Vedado crammed with art galleries, concerts, restaurants, bars and nightspots. La Rampa offers some decent souvenir shopping in dollar-stores and market stalls along with good restaurants to ease the hunger pangs brought on by all the haggling. Nearby, the Plaza de la Revolución boasts grand monuments to José Martí and Ernesto "Che" Guevara, its two most famous heroes of the revolution. If this piques your curiosity then a trip to the Museo José Martí will let your mind rest easy.

The Malecón is packed with a stunning array of late- and post-colonial buildings built in a mind-boggling jumble of Rococo, Baroque and classical styles and home to the Museo de los Artes Decorativos. The leafy streets of Miramar, modelled on mid-twentieth-century Miami is the place to go to be wined and dined before collapsing into bed at one of the luxury hotels.

Blistering summer days may stop many a traveller from getting out and about, but luckily Havana offers a great solution in the way of vintage pre-revolutionary cars to whisk you between destinations. To take in the scenery whilst you travel, try a bicitaxis – a three wheeled two-seater bike whilst those who like a bit of novelty value should take a cocotaxi – a motorscooter encased in a yellow sphere.

As night falls, Havana becomes a playground for all those who want to drink and dance through till morning. Live salsa, jazz or son groups will get even those with three left feet up dancing. For a true glimpse of life in Havana, grab a bottle of local rum and head to the Malecón for an evening's drinking under the stars.

At times, the colonial setting and jovial bustle of the streets can make the city feel much like a film set, yet what would be props and actors are very much a normal part of everyday life. But that just adds to its unique charm. With its heady mix of history, poverty, beauty and old world glamour, Havana is a place which intoxicates as much as its rum.