There's something indefinably intoxicating about Guadeloupe - and that's before you start sampling the local rum. Set in the heart of the Caribbean, the butterfly-shaped island is a melting pot for French and African influences, combining with gusto in the spirited Creole culture. But it's also a place to get away from all the trappings of life at home with its superb sandy beaches and lush rainforest offering all the trimmings of a true paradise.

The main island is split into two "wings" - the Basse-Terre boasting mountain ranges and black sandy beaches contrasting with the flat, rural stretches of the Grande-Terre. Now add a cluster of offshore islands with the rural sugary splendours of Marie-Galante, the undeveloped La Désirade and the quaint architecture, the craggy shores of Terre-de-Bas and sweeping bays of the touristy Terre-de-Haut and picture-perfect Guadeloupe starts to take shape.

Most visitors make a beeline for Le Gosier on Grande-Terre with its high quality hotels, thriving nightlife and water sports facilities to cater for the hoards of snorkellers, windsurfers and body-boarders looking for some light-hearted amusement. Those wanting a taste of Caribbean culture can head along the main drag, boulevard Général-de-Gaulle, to stumble across the colonial style houses and narrow streets typical of the island.

The postcard-perfect Plage Caravelle lies further along the east coast but if the swarms of Club Med guests get a bit too much then try the laid back, arty Ste-Anne and the upmarket St-Francois to avoid the crowds. The hustle and bustle of Guadeloupe's largest city and commercial centre, Pointe-à-Pitre, is a must for any itinerary with lively markets hawking spices, souvenirs and fresh fish around the Quai de la Darse. Then if the heat and noise prove a little too much, try the northern Lagoon de la Porte d'Enfer to cool off in a dramatic natural swimming pool.

The rugged shores, mountain ranges and rainforest of the Basse-Terre offer a chance to discover the island's wilder side - and one of the best diving sites in the Caribbean. The areas around the Îlets Pigeon have a magnetic attraction for diving enthusiasts with undamaged coral and a host of multi-coloured fish going about their underwater business.

The gigantic Parc National de la Guadeloupe covering the volcanic mass of La Soufrière is an UNESCO Biosphere Reserve with hiking trials for fitness fanatics and those just after a gentle stroll through the rainforest. Head down to the watery wonders of the Chutes de Carbet before meandering on to the warm golden sands of the Grande Anse or the black crystalline Plage Malendure.

When it comes to eating out, the fresh array of seafood on offer is enough to tempt even the fussiest of eaters. Take your pick from lobster, red snapper, conch and sea urchin cooked in French, Creole, African or South-East Asian styles. Those looking to sample island specialties can sink their teeth into stuffed crab, stewed conch, roast wild goat, jugged rabbit and broiled dove. Afterwards, bars and clubs will see you through till the early morning or for something a little more cultured, catch a performance of the Biguine, the famous dance of the island complete with colourful Creole costumes.

Guadeloupe is one of the best islands within the French West Indies to amuse yourself both underwater and on-land with enough exquisitely flavoured fresh food and drink to send your taste buds into overdrive while making everyday stresses and strains melt away. So as far as paradise destinations go, Guadeloupe has pretty much got the lot.