Europe's 'odd man out', Prague has all the credentials of a European city from the designer shops to the trendy bars, but still manages to be quite unlike any other capital.

Once the centre of all that was Bohemian and fanciful, the capital of the Czech Republic attracts hundreds in search of a cheap, cool, golden Czech beer and a good time.

The city still suffers from a dented infrastructure and the average citizen of Prague could never afford to buy even a glass of water in the city's sophisticated restaurants and cavernous, warehouse-style clubs.

However, it has a quaint, kooky charm which is irresistible to the free-spirited, wondering traveller while containing enough bars and restaurants to satiate the voracious urban appetite of the well-heeled city-hopper.

Recent European Union (EU) membership and over a decade as a free market democracy means the city is rapidly changing, but travellers will find the pace of life in Prague endearingly gentle.

Aimless wanderers content to stroll around the city will enjoy meandering through Prague's numerous art galleries, museums and palaces. A stroll round the city is like taking an architectural tour through Europe's glorious periods from Renaissance to Romantic, so little itinerary planning is really needed.

Prague Castle is a grand and excellent starting point. Made up of a cathedral, two museum, several galleries a Romanesque cathedral, it makes for a fantastic place to 'lose yourself'; both figuratively and literally.

From the castle, it is easy to reach one of Prague's prettiest streets, completely lined with cute pastel-coloured cottages built in the 16th century.

From Golden Lane it is a short walk to the Black Tower and Old Castle Steps - both unimaginably beautiful.

The steps take you to the west of the crumbling old city where you can happily explore winding streets and walk along the Vltava River.

Those who can tear themselves away from the appealingly dark and crumbling fringes of the old quarter should head to the centre, where they will find a busy square and the Church of St Nicholas, with its impressive dome and belltower.

Even if you want to avoid areas thronging with toursists, it worth battling the crowds to reach the Old Quarter and take a look at the Charles Bridge, one of Prague's most enduring and long-suffering landmarks.

Built in 1357 to close the yawning void between Prague's two sides, the bridge has undergone many makeovers and restorations.

For an eerie step back in time, visit the near-desolate streets of the north-west of the toursity Old Town Square. This area is known as the Josefov neighbourhood, Prague's old Jewish ghetto. Built before Prague's grand bridge it was home to the city's Jewish community for 700 years. It was bulldozed in the early twentieth century to make way for new boulevards and was finally decimated by the Nazis later on. Here you can see the old Jewish Town Hall with its four-sided clock, of which one face has hands that tick 'backwards' in keeping with Hebrew tradition.

The Hebrew face of the clock is symbolic of the city - always somehow managing to go against the grain of European conformity.

Prague is a surprising place. Turn one corner and you find yourself in a seedy square, turn the next and you could run into an awe-inspiring Renaissance building. It is well documented that Prague's beer is cheap, it is a shame that its spirit and splendour does not always attract a similar, well-deserved accolade.