Long-regarded as the capital of France's underbelly, Marseilles' mix of grit and glamour makes it a dangerously attractive travel prospect.

Currently undergoing sweeping urban regeneration, the coastal city is set to trade in its image as a crumbling, crime-ridden concrete jungle. A blossoming arts and a wonderful coastline - made all the more spectacular by its juxtaposition with the city's untidy urban sprawl - make Marseilles a worthwhile destination.

It may not be as chic as Paris or as trendy as Milan, but Marseilles still emanates that inimitable, quintessential French elegance.

Part of the region of Provence, Marseilles was founded in 600 BC by the Greek sailors of Phocaea, making it one of the oldest cities in France, as well as the second largest.

During French colonisation, Marseilles served as the gateway to the Mediterranean and exists today as a cosmopolitan, exuberant city.

The old town (Le Panier), the teeming port, the cliff road overlooking the sea and the inlets plunging into deep blue waters are the stuff dream travel destinations are made of. It is true that Marseilles' quaint image as a bustling port city has been marred by crime and poor maintenance of the city's historic buildings, but its exuberance and character make up for its less attractive attributes.

For a real taste of Marseilles life, head out from the centre of town and explore some of its 'quartiers' - of which there are over 100. Each one is like a small, provincial French village with its own church and obligatory boules green.

Fit travellers can also climb 162 metres above sea level to visit the famous church of the patron saint of sailors, Notre Dame de La Garde, and admire the jutting cliffs which inspired one of the most famous post-impressionists, Paul Cezanne.

The heart of the city is the Vieux Port. Guarded by the 12th-century Fort St -Jean on the north bank and Fort St Nicholas to the south, the port is the hub of Marseille life.

To the south visitors will find the Théâtre National de la Criée, which was converted from old fish auction rooms, and the city's hottest nightspots.

Le Panier, to the north, was traditionally the first stop for immigrants and is normally high on the list of tourists' priorities. The steep hilly streets and sloping, pastel-coloured houses are a nod back to bygone Marseilles days.

Belsunce around Rue d'Aubagne has an interesting north-African flavour while the road running east from Vieux Port is the city's main street, La Canebière.

Boutiques are possibly even more French than baguettes and while Marseilles may lack the slick chic of the capital, Espace Julien has enough trendy boutiques to satiate the trendiest of travellers. It is also buzzing with street cafes and bars, making it the ideal place to sip a latté and feel fashionably French.

Marseilles is very much a city, and with that city status comes problems and tensions. Crumbling ancient buildings stand alongside unsympathetically modern structures and certain quartiers have had problems with crime. However, Marseilles is a likeable, often beautiful place, and like a good Gustave Flaubert novel is set to become a French classic. All it needs is a little TLC to restore its je ne sais quoi.