Buying a Motorcycle

Make a choice

Be realistic about what you can handle. You might dream about sitting astride something sleek and powerful like a Kawasaki ZX-12R, but are you capable and brave enough to take control of one of the fastest rides on the planet?

Choose a bike that suits you, not one that you can pose on. If you’ll be commuting during heavy traffic, you’ll want something that handles well, something ‘nippy’. But if you’re going to be travelling long distances, you’ll need a comfy saddle and good mileage.

A bike should suit your size, too. You can’t stay in control of a machine if your feet don’t touch the floor.

New bike

Not only is a new bike more expensive than its second hand equivalent, your purchase will greatly depreciate in value over its first year. (This is only a problem if you plan to keep the bike for no more than a matter of months.) Also bear in mind that the higher value of a new motorbike will mean a higher cost for your motorbike insurance.

There are several advantages of buying a new motorcycle. First, there’s the likelihood that the dealer will take your old bike in part-exchange. Franchise and import outlets will be able to offer a full manufacturer’s warranty, low-rate finance deals and a good level of after-sales service. However, sales tactics are often high-pressure and prices don’t offer great value.

A non-franchised dealer will offer more competitive prices and have a wider range of bikes from a variety of makers. But they might not all be the latest models and any warranties could have a large excess, meaning that only faults costing over a certain amount to repair are covered. Plus, the bikes in stock might not be the ‘official’ British versions.

Some dealers – but not many – sell online, which can often make for a quicker purchasing process, but there is little chance of negotiating a discount.

Used bike

When buying a second hand motorcycle you should make extensive checks before handing over your money, and you’ll need a torch to do so – even during the day. Shine the light in every nook and cranny behind the bodywork to check for rust, cracks and evidence of repair work. Give the exterior a good once-over for evidence that the bike has been dropped or tipped over: scuffs, scratches and dents.

Private sellers will often be unwilling to let you take a test drive (they’ll be afraid that you won’t come back). But you can turn on the ignition to check that the engine starts properly and doesn’t smoke, that the clutch doesn’t slip, and that there are no leaks under the bike.

Ensure the chain isn’t worn or slack and that the rear sprocket isn’t bent or worn. If you are able to go for a test drive, check that the bike doesn’t slip out of gear as it accelerates.

Assess whether the mileage is consistent with the bike’s age and condition. If they don’t tally, the motorcycle might have been ‘clocked’ – its odometer having been unscrupulously turned back.

Finally, consult the motorcycle’s V5 (its logbook) and verify that the frame and engine numbers therein are the same as those on the bike itself. If they aren’t, the machine has either been rebuilt after an accident or it’s stolen.

The consumer assistance organisation HPI (http://www.hpicheck.com) can run a check to establish the bike’s history of ownership, repairs, motoring offences and so on.

If you have any doubts about the bike, walk away.