Umu

Billed as London's 'first true Kyoto restaurant' Umu specialises in kaiseki cuisine which originates from Japan's ancient capital, Kyoto. One of the most expensive ways in the world to eat, kaiseki is Japanese cooking at its most refined, defined and designed. Those last three adjectives also best describe Umu's luxurious look. Dark, rich wood is moodily matched with mirrors and low velvet banquettes. Umu means 'born of nature' but there's nothing natural about the prices. Set kaiseki courses, with or without sushi, start at £60 rising to £200 per person. Classic, modern and warm sushi cost £3 to £6 per piece, and there's a separate specials menu. Highlights include a teriyaki of tuna belly with yuzu served by attractive kimono-clad waitresses.