Picholine

This is where moneyed, cultured New York goes to dine near Lincoln Center. They love the hushed Old World ambience, the high ceilings, French country antiques, dazzling chandeliers and the tapestries, and the service of a sort that would be provided by indulgent, loyal family retainers, if only one could get the staff. The menu, under chef/owner Terrance Brennan, is highly-skilled, slightly Mediterraneanified French. Dishes include sea urchin panna cotta starter, horseradish-encrusted tournedos of salmon main course, or more complex mains like poached day-boat halibut with cauliflower mousseline, pistachio gremolata and black truffle dressing. The thing is, almost no one bothers with dessert because of the truly astonishing cheese carte. There is a master fromager on site, Max McCalman, and he chooses fifty varieties from across the planet and keeps them at the absolute peak of perfection. There is even a cheese menu that suggests complementary ports and wines. In fact, you could skip the earlier courses and just enjoy this bit of culinary mastery on its own.

Booking Tip: Please try to make your New York booking at least 48 hours in advance.