Arbutus

Once home to the legendary Bistro Bruno, this comfily smart U-shaped Soho site is now owned by one of the chefs who worked there at the time, Anthony Demetre, most recently chef-director of Michelin-starred Putney Bridge. His days of fussy food have been replaced with gorgeously gutsy, full-flavoured French cuisine that hits the mark with every single dish (just as well, because you'll want them all). Meat is Demetre's strength: there's every reason to get excited about the starter of slow-cooked shoulder of lamb boulangère with soft, nutty sweetbreads and spiced dates. The more adventurous will be satisfied with the likes of pieds et paquets, a Provencal dish of sheep's tripe and trotters. Desserts are the best you'll have tasted in a long time. Every wine on the 50-plus list is available by the 250ml carafe. Brilliant.