Africa's transport

By James Stone

Everything about travelling around Africa is an experience, but the transport aspect of a backpacking trip is sure to result in a host unforgettable moments.

Most travel is done on buses. These come in all shapes and sizes, from mini-buses to single-decker 'coasters' to big coaches for long-haul trips. There are trains around but they are not that popular. Apparently they are not always safe. Having seen the buses, I cannot imagine what condition the trains must be in.

As far as I could tell, there are no bus timetables in Africa. Instead you just keep walking in the direction you want to go until one comes along and the 'bus boy' (a kind of trendy bus conductor which every bus has at least one of) pushes you onboard.

If you get on the bus at the station before it sets off, you may have to sit for 45 minutes while they wait for each seat to be sat on and all conceivable standing space to be filled. They then proceed to pick up more people along the way. Things get pretty sweaty.

On one of my first bus rides in Tanzania, there was no room for me and my two pals onboard so several men jumped out and sat on the roof. This allowed us to hang out of the door as the bus careered down an unmade, steep road at top speed.

Another day, my two friends and I got a ride in a 4x4 at the end of market day. We were joined in the back not just by huge banana plants and giant bags of grain but another 24 people. That’s 27 people in a 4x4. They were sitting on the roof, hanging out of the door, we were sitting on each others' laps and limbs were poking out of windows. It was one of the best rides of my life! Maybe this explains why there are no theme parks in Africa – you can experience it for real.

On most trips, if you are fortunate enough to have a seat, you will be given a child or a chicken to look after. Either will quite happily sit on your lap and usually provide much entertainment. I once sat next to a seat piled high with boxes of live chicks which really made the time fly.

Bus drivers, who are permanently in a massive rush – the only thing that goes fast in Africa is the buses – often decide to escape traffic jams by driving down the wrong side of the road. This happens on almost every journey within the city and unbelievably, doesn't speed things up that much.

Some of my most used Swahili phrases during my time in Tanzania were "slow down" and "look at the road", since the drivers have no qualms about turning road to speak to a friend riding in the back.

Another favourite with drivers, is to stop the bus on a railway line in a traffic jam so there is no escape for the occupants.

There are no gates between the trains and buses, so if a train comes along and you have the misfortune to be in the bus which has stopped across the tracks, then, well, your chances don't look great.

But things generally seem to turn out fine.

In most countries, transport is a means of getting somewhere that will be amazing. In Africa, the journey itself is unforgettable and a true taste of the culture.