Bratislava Holiday

Capitalising on its position at the confluence of the Austrian, Czech and Hungarian borders, Bratislava boasts a lively and cosmopolitan atmosphere, without the hordes of tourists that swamp its more glamorous neighbour Prague.

Like many of its former eastern-bloc peers, Bratislava has undergone something of a metamorphosis in recent years, as major renovation work takes place across the capital.

Aesthetically speaking, Bratislava is divided into two distinct sides. Much of the city was destroyed during the second world war, and rebuilt in the stereotypically threadbare soviet-era style. As a result, Bratislava has not established itself as a mainstream tourist destination and has not experienced the same remarkable boom that other cities such as Prague, Budapest, or even the Balkan capitals have enjoyed.

However, while much of modern Bratislava may be in need of a spruce up, the old quarter is the absolute highlight of any trip to the Slovakian capital. To walk through the district is to pass through a time-warp, as the Habsburg Baroque architecture and narrow cobbled streets evoke images of Bratislava's imperial past.

The city has long played a key role in the political development of central Europe, and remained a key cultural centre throughout the Austro-Hungarian empire. As a testament to Bratislava's significance in both industrial and cultural terms, several impressive Baroque palaces and charming burgher houses were constructed in the Old Town. These remain a major tourist draw today.

And it is in the old quarter that most of Bratislava's appeal can be found. Efforts have been made to beautify the city, and the paved streets and squares of the old town are now abuzz with both traditional cafés and bars and more modern, western style venues.

The old city is also packed with museums, palaces and theatres. Highlights include the Municipal Museum, complete with torture chambers and the Primate's Palace and the Mirbach Palace.

Bratislava castle, built above the Danube, was a frontier post of the Roman Empire from the 1st to the 5th century and offers the most spectacular panoramic views in the city.

The Slovak National Museum and the Slovak National Gallery on the river are also worth a visit.

Due to its position on the border between the mild and warm climatic zones, Bratislava ranks among the warmest spots in Slovakia with an average temperature of 9.9°C.

Most visitors to Bratislava tend to go during the summer months when the weather is at its hottest and people throng the city's many bars, cafes and restaurants.

Given that Bratislava has not yet established itself as a mainstream tourist destination, prices are considerably lower than in many other European cities. However, following Slovakia's entry to the EU in May 2004, prices have begun to rise steadily.

But Bratislava's dearth of tourism is one of its greatest draws. It remains very much an old European city, with an authentic atmosphere that has not yet been undermined by mass tourism. Bratislava boasts a wealth of cultural, historical and social attractions to entertain any visitor, but with a refreshing absence of big city pretension.