Knights and Days on Malta

Deep in the heart of the Mediterranean lies a tiny island nation, situated geographically and culturally between the worlds of Europe and of Africa.

A group of rocky outcrops in some of the Mediterranean's deepest waters, Malta has endured wave after wave of invaders and historical change while falling never entirely into the embrace of Europe or the Arabic world.

Indeed, Malta's unique character is reflected in the Maltese language: barely known outside the islands of Malta and Gozo, for centuries subjugated as a purely spoken vernacular to the tongues of various conquerors. While structurally akin to the Arabic and Semitic languages of North Africa and the Middle East, the Maltese language has always been written in the Latin alphabet and incorporates many words from Italian, French and English.

Malta is a country rich in history. Not only measurable history, however: the islands are home to the oldest megalithic monuments known to survive in the world, with archaeologists dating stone structures at Ggantija, Hagar Qim, Tarxien, and Mnajdra to 5200 BC.

But Malta's most famous historical inhabitants were the Knights of St John, or the Hospitallers, a military-religious order, who were given the islands as a sovereign base for their activities in 1530.

The influence of the knights is still visible, in the fortifications that scatter the countryside, and most spectacularly, in the Grand Harbour and capital city of Valletta.

The knights continued to rule Malta until thrown out by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1798, who in turn was expelled by the British in 1800.

Having at long last achieved independence in 1964 after two millennia of foreign dominion, Malta is a proud and distinctive democratic nation state, which joined the European Union in 2004.

It is also a beautiful and fascinating holiday destination. After over 150 years of British rule, it is familiar enough to feel like home, but with so many influences contributing to the Maltese character and environment, it is alien enough to offer something new to even the most jaded of travellers.

The climate is Mediterranean – hot and dry in the summer, mild in the winter (with an average five or six hours' sunshine even in midwinter) – but, being situated in the middle of the sea, Malta is particularly susceptible to its influence.

While the islands' coasts are usually cooled by sea breezes – which can at times interfere with sunbathers' relaxation – from time to time, Malta is occasionally swept by the Sirocco (or Xlokk in Maltese).

The Sirocco is a hot wind from North Africa, that brings exceptional heat and humidity at certain times in spring and autumn.

Around the coast of Malta, huge modern hotel complexes have sprung up, many of five-star quality.

The neighbouring island of Gozo is less developed, offering a more quiet and less commercialised haven.

Directly between Malta and Gozo, the tiny islet of Comino offers a completely unspoiled, barely inhabited paradise.

Beach lovers should take care, however. Malta is an island of rocks, and beaches are scarce and often crowded.

English is almost universally spoken, and those without an interest in Malta's astonishing history need not even be aware that a native language is spoken at all.

Prices are comparable to the UK, but shoppers should remember the Mediterranean habit of siesta: most outlets close between 1pm and 4pm in the afternoon.

All this is just a few hours from London, with British Airways and Air Malta flying directly from London airports to Valletta. And at just 93 kilometres from Sicily, it is within easy sailing distance of Italy.

Along with trans-shipment and finance, tourism is Malta's primary industry, and having long ago become accustomed to visitors coming and going, the Maltese do it very well indeed.