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Surfing in Newquay
By James Stone Back in the water, it soon became evident that the explosive method was out. The only explosions going on were as I attempted to jump to my feet, found the board disappear from under me, and plunged headfirst in to the sea. It was also extremely tiring, and with my wetsuit full of water and my arms already knackered from paddling to catch waves, it was a real non-starter. I had more success with the staggered method in that I could get up on to my knees and then get one foot on the board and occasionally two, but not long enough so that it could be counted as surfing. The day ended with me feeling shattered and cross. However, after a night trying to avoid getting in to fights with pissed-up 16-year-olds, it was back to the surf in better frame of mind. The new day brought considerable success. With the a word or two of advice regarding positioning on the board from Sandy and with my strength back I was up on to my knees, then on to my feet with 15 minutes. Wild celebrations ensued! From then on I was on my feet and surfing, often all the way in to shore, at least seven out of ten attempts and the feeling topped that of my previous favourite boarding experience, that of snowboarding, for the incredible sense of floating and speed that it brought on. I'm heading back this summer in the hope that I won't have forgotten how to do it.
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